Slimy, smuggled, and worth top dollar

The Counter | March 2021

As the price of eel—and unagi—heats up, so do efforts to understand and save this tricky fish.

It’s hard for aquaculturist Sara Rademaker to pin down the precise moment she fell in love with eels.

It may have been when a fisherman first gifted her a handful of squirming baby eels—also called glass eels or elvers—or the hours she spent with them, raising them to adulthood in a giant tank in her basement. Or it might have been when she killed them, cooked them in a borrowed smoker, and took a bite.

“When I had that eel, I was like, ‘I have to grow this fish,’” Rademaker said. “People get obsessed with eels. They like to work with them, and then it just, like, engulfs them.”

Six years after that first bite, Rademaker stared down into a tank in her eel business’ headquarters in rural Maine, watching sinuous, footlong eels weave figure-eights under the surface. The eels’ slim bodies tumbled together in a blur of green backs and stormcloud-gray bellies. When they were netted as glass eels in 2018—legally, she stresses—they were worth more than $2,400 per pound.